Life on Koh Tao: In the beginning

KOH TAO, little more than 21 Km2, is located about 70 km. east of the coastline between Suratthani and Chumphon, in the Gulf of Thailand.

Koh Tao means Turtle Island, because in the past the waters in the area were rich with sea turtles, nowadays they have mostly moved on to other breeding grounds. Initially the island was not inhabited, there was only the occasional fisherman from the neighboring islands, looking for shelter in a storm or just taking a break before continuing his tiresome journey.

From 1933 on the island was used as a political prison: Life on Koh Tao meant something completely different than it does today! . In 1947, Khun A-Paiwong, prime minister at the time, pleaded and received a royal pardon for all prisoners on the island. Everybody was taken to the Suratthani shore and the "Turtle" was abandoned again.

But not for long…
In the same year Khun Ueam and his twin brother khun Oh reached Koh Tao from the neighboring Koh Phangan by trying out their traditional sail boat, for that time a quite long and dangerous journey.

Even though the island was still under royal patronage, it didn't stop these pioneers claiming themselves a good part of the land on today's Sairee Beach. Life on Koh Tao as we know it had begun.
Having brought their families over, they began to cultivate and harvest the excellent soil.

The first generation of today's community had settled!
They lived a very simple and tough life in Koh Tao harvesting coconuts, fishing and growing vegetables, which were also traded with Koh Phangan.

Despite the difficulties in reaching the island, life on Koh Tao was good and the population then grew steadily.
In the eighties the first travelers discovered the island paradise and their special "backpacker-network" quickly made it widely known and a popular destination. As a consequence, bigger, faster and safer boats were used to allow easier access to Koh Tao.

During the past ten years the reputation of Turtle Island's natural beauty, especially its marine life and coral reefs, has spread the world over and the number of paradise seekers increased rapidly.

It soon became one of the major dive sites in Thailand, attracting beginners and professionals alike.

The local businesses expanded immediately to catch up with the needs of the new clientele. The island today, though still remaining an absolute paradise, caters for all tastes and budgets.

Going shopping

Don't be afraid, there might be a few western luxury items missing, but the essentials can be found everywhere around the island.

From scuba dive & snorkel equipment to stylish, unique beach wear, there are a lot of shops offering quality and brand products for bargain prices. Just don’t be surpised when your new “raybans” break with in 24 hours!

Original ethnic souvenirs made from ceramic, coconut, shells or bamboo and unique jewelery made from silver, leather, beads and precious stones are offered in several shops as well as from vendors at the roadside.

There are plenty of second hand bookshops and now even imported/reference titles available for rental. Except in the big stores prices are open for discussion, as long as you stay friendly and reasonable.

After sunset

Life on Koh Tao , usually rather relaxed can get surprisingly energetic after dawn and if you like to party all night in a pleasant surrounding, you've come to the perfect place. The major bars and dance spots around the island are mostly right on the beaches or on mountain tops. They impress with stylish, modern or colorful, ethnic design. The owners are very creative and staff is extremely friendly. Drink prices are moderate and don't forget to check out the innovative cocktails, typically for Tao, Served in buckets.

Professional DJ's from all over the world spin their best and the freshest sounds are guaranteed. Amazing fire jugglers perform during the parties.

To find out what's up, look out for advertising at shops and taxis. The happy crowd never seems to get tired and basically there is a cool party going on somewhere every night, full moon, half moon, black moon or not, with enough taxis around to get you home safely.

For the more low-key clientele there are also a few pub-like venues and cocktail lounges with chill out tunes. Some show live sports, some have pool tables and you will easily find an expat to join a game of Backgammon. Most restaurants have a daily changing movie program, advertised on white boards at the entrance.

Thai Boxing is performed irregularly, there are flyers and quite audible announcements from cars informing about date and place. Can't miss it!.

Hungry after midnight? Ali the pancake man is waiting for you!

The sea is naturally at higher risk because pollution is not as instantly visible as it is on the land. Imagine that yearly cleaning events organized by the dive schools retrieve tons of garbage from the bottom of the sea.

First rule: Don't throw anything at all into the sea!
Second rule: Just look, don't touch!

Marine life is very sensitive & easily harmed, even killed, some is poisonous and some will just … bite! Also organic waste (like pineapple, watermelon skin or lunch leftovers) should never be thrown into the sea, as fish will love eating it but then die slowly being unable to digest it as well as it will cover the corals and litter the beaches. Corals are very slow growing, but fragile and easily destroyed, often by accidental contact with the scuba gear.

Dead corals and shells are very important for the bio-cycle, so every time you want to pick up a souvenir, consider the impact of thousands of tourists doing the same must have. Besides most underwater beauty, a photo or video is always the better and longer lasting choice.

All in all, the basic rule should be to simply to leave this fantastic place the same as you'd like to find it: Unspoiled!

Scuba diving

Just over 10 years ago buffalo carts and tiny boats were used as the main form of transportation. The first diving operations came from Samui with the divers staying overnight in primitive huts. Only 2 years later a couple of very basic dive centers started operating on Koh Tao. Equipment was limited, wetsuits were not available for customers and only small fishing boats were used to take divers to the sites. Finding popular sites was a combination of lining up fix points on the horizon and dragging dive masters on ropes behind the boat, hoping they would recognize the sites from the surface.

Since this time Koh Tao has exploded on the diving circuit and it now has the reputation of being the main training center for dive students in South East Asia and a great hub for Diving in Thailand.

When you feel wronged or cheated, consider if the cause is worth the hassle and maybe just follow the true Thai tradition of "Mai Pen Rai" meaning "Never mind" …and always keep smiling.

Attention, sleeping under coconut trees might not be as relaxing as it seems, because its likely that one of these nuts decides to drop down exactly while you are there.

There are no streetlights but lots of dark areas with plenty of obstacles, so get yourself a decent flashlight, it makes a big difference when staggering home after a long party night.

Oh, it has to be said: drugs of any kind are in Koh Tao as illegal as everywhere else, there are undercover police and even a little joint will be handled as a capital crime, resulting at least in a financial disaster, maybe avis ban throughout Asia, or even worse. You have been warned!.

Staying healthy

Should you get ill or have a minor accident, you can find first aid, professional medical care, medicine and good advice in one of the many clinics around. If more serious you can reach hospitals in Chumphon and Samui by speed boat in about 1 hour or even by helicopter.

Now for some tips to avoid unpleasant interruptions of your valuable holiday.
People who come first to the tropics always underestimate some dangers of the otherwise wonderful climate and surroundings. The Sun. Expose yourself slowly to the sun, 20 min on the beach is an awful lot for a white westerner. The burning rays will get you even in the shadow, through the reflection of the sea. Sun block is essential. Wear a shirt when snorkeling. In case of sunburn best apply Aloe Vera.

Dehydration. You will sweat a lot and you'll have to refill your loss by drinking lots of water, 5 liters a day is the rule of thumb, and sorry coke or beer don't help at all. Fresh coconut juice though is miraculous, a natural electrolyte.

Heatstroke. The sun again, better always wear a hat. Sitting in the sea is refreshing, but if for too long your head gets it all, in the same time your body can't sweat and your system shuts down. If you feel nauseous, feverish and dizzy, seek medical advice immediately.

Fungus. Not dangerous but itchy. Likes humid climate and damp clothes. Prevent it with talcum powder which is cooling nicely too. Dry your towels in the sun. If it's too late you can get relieving creams in the pharmacies.

Local food. It's good, its tasty, but you've got to get used to some of it, take it easy with the spicy stuff and avoid salads with fermented crabs, they are meant to make you run. Chinese green tea and rice soup or yoke are excellent to calm down an upset stomach.

Infections. Even tiny scratches can turn into nasty things if not treated properly. Keep wounds dry and clean and use lots of iodine. If it gets worse, better see a nurse.

Mosquitoes. You heard about them. They love sucking you dry in the early evening and anytime in the jungle. Don't scratch the bites or we are back to infections. There are plenty of repellents available. Cheaper is one of the local wonder ointments called Yah Mong, like Tiger Balm, this amazing stuff keeps them away, stops the itching and smells good. Helps for many other things. Too. Avoid sensitive areas like eyes or groin, that's worse than a bite.